View Full Version : Do I need a new drivetrain
ciaran
31-08-2009, 07:20 PM
Hiyiz,
my chain and gears are driving me bananas. They slip all the time, usually when I don't want them to. Both from the main chainring into the granny, and also from ring to ring on the cassette.
The chain is 2 years old and has two or three powerlinks. I did change it for a new one, but the new one refused to mesh properly with the cassette and chainrings...
The cassette is 2 years old, but looks perfect
The chainrings look grand too (not spiky or anything)....
What's the story - do I go all out and buy a new cassette, chain and chainrings, and if I do, then where ? CRC, or is there a secret German website? Or do I just mess about with the indexing and hope it'll all go away ?
Thanks a lot, oh expert ones
Ciaran
Scrivo
31-08-2009, 07:22 PM
New big ring, middle ring, cassette and chain will sort it. Sounds like the chain is stretched and worn. You have to get it all new together or it will end in disaster.
ciaran
31-08-2009, 07:32 PM
New big ring, middle ring, cassette and chain will sort it. Sounds like the chain is stretched and worn. You have to get it all new together or it will end in disaster.
Cheers, Scrivo.
Is CRC the place to go (as usual) ? Heard rumours of some German wundersite for people who have to get the whole kit and kaboodle.... or maybe that's just if you're going mad and buying shifters and derailleurs and....
thanks
Ciaran
starbike.com and bike-components.de are typically good for shimano stuff, delivery is reasonable too when split over the cost of all the items...
ciaran
31-08-2009, 07:46 PM
starbike.com and bike-components.de are typically good for shimano stuff, delivery is reasonable too when split over the cost of all the items...
Thanks a lot, Sean.
Ignorance moment... there's lots of different setups for the cassettes (e.g. Shimano XTR cassette CS-M970, 11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32) - is there a good reason why I wouldn't want the widest possible range between the first and last rings ? Simillarly for the chainrings - is there any reason not to have as few teeth as possible on the granny ring ?
Thanks again
Ciaran
Front chainrings are almost always 22-32-44T (but you don't need the 22 anyway!)
Cassettes either 11-32 or 11-34, 34 if you like to spin or 32 if you're a bit faster.
Closer spacing (as on road cassettes) gives you less jumps in cadence between gears and makes it easier to find exactly the right gear for your preferred leg speed, but the terrain when mountainbiking makes a bigger difference...
ciaran
31-08-2009, 08:04 PM
Fair enough - that's great. A quick look at my current setup shows about 35 surviving teeth on the outermost chainring - I mainly use that ring for gouging rocks with.
Is there any issue with using a SRAM cassette with Shimano shifters/derailleurs ?
Cheers - Ciaran
paddyobrien
31-08-2009, 08:46 PM
nope .. SRAM cassette and chains are are fine with shimano chains and cassettes
Is there any issue with using a SRAM cassette with Shimano shifters/derailleurs ?
Cheers - Ciaran
No issue as far as I know, only thing that can't mixed is Shimano Shifters with SRAM derailleurs and vice \ versa
RichieH
31-08-2009, 08:51 PM
You'll most likely need new jockey wheels on the rear mech too.
Never used a sram cassette but I can't see why there'd be a problem. Sram derailleurs and chains work fine with shimano cassettes so the opposite should be true.
Fergal
31-08-2009, 08:54 PM
A quick look at my current setup shows about 35 surviving teeth on the outermost chainring - I mainly use that ring for gouging rocks with.
brilliant, the juxtaposition of the ultimate geeky act of counting the number intact teeth on his outer chainring with the description of the actual function of said chainring, who'd have thought it possible of the young fellah......
RichieH
31-08-2009, 08:55 PM
Sorry took me so long to write that the boys already had it answered- better take type writer skills off the cv!
RichieH
31-08-2009, 09:02 PM
who'd have thought it possible of the young fellah......
Think it's Clissman not the young fella?
Fergal
31-08-2009, 09:16 PM
Think it's Clissman not the young fella?
oh right - he's even worse that lad.....
ciaran
01-09-2009, 08:17 AM
Thank you, thank you... the appreciation is deafening.
Richie - "not the young fella" - wtf is that meant to mean ? Just because you're only out of nappies.... next thing you'll be putting me in same "old nags" category as that Lavelle geezer.
Going shopping to CRC now....anyone seen my reading glasses ?
Scrivo
01-09-2009, 09:46 AM
As in young Ciaran Corson of the school going variety!
ciaran
01-09-2009, 09:58 AM
sorry, yes, I know that Richie was making it clear that I wasn't Mr Corson. It's the "not young" element of his comment I object to.
ciaran
01-09-2009, 10:07 AM
Richie, better leave in the typerwriter skills...Might be all you can sell down in Oz, unless you cut the cheeks out of your jeans, as discussed.
http://www.ridinginstyleleather.ca/images/MENS%20LEATHER%20CHAPS%20ZONY%20450.jpg
That is the greatest image to grace this website to date^^
ciaran
01-09-2009, 12:03 PM
Sorry about the angle... I couldn't get a decent rear view.
RichieH
01-09-2009, 12:32 PM
Jezzz.... and all I was trying to do was distinguish you from 'young lad Claran'.
Best not find a rear shot - you'll send your poor ticker over the edge with images like that 'Old man Clissman'
RichieH
01-09-2009, 12:48 PM
Let there be no more confusion...
ciaran
01-09-2009, 04:15 PM
What's with the picture of your mum, Rich ?
ciaran
04-09-2009, 09:31 AM
An update on this, for anyone else who's bothered by slipping gears...
1 - got all the bits (mainly XT) from CRC for a bit less than 100 euro. This included the chain whip and the cassette remover, plus cassette, middle chainring and chain.
2 - removing the cassette is well documented online, and pretty simple with the chain whip and cassette remover.
3- to replace the middle chainring, I had to take the cranks off (my bike has Hollowtech II cranks). That involved (A) removing a little disk with a knurled edge and a star-shaped inner profile from the non-drive side of the cranks. While you can get a special tool for the star-shaped inner, this can be removed by jamming in whatever tool will fit in the star-shaped bits. Half a general-purpose pliers worked well for me. (B) removing two small bolts that hold the non-drive-side crank arm onto the crankshaft (if that's the right word for the hollow bar through the bottom bracket). (c) tapping the now-exposed end of the crankshaft to slide it out of the bottom bracket. This, in my case, took quite a lot of force and patience - some lubricant helped, as did advice from Shane Lavelle!. A block of wood between hammer and crankshaft helps to avoid battering the end of the crankshaft.
After that, removing and replacing the chainring was a doddle. I did find, though, that my granny ring was much more worn than I thought, so I'm going to have to do this all over again in a couple of days!
Putting the cranks back on was handy. The end of the crankshaft is ribbed so that you can only put the non-drive crank back on in the correct position. Don't over-tighten the two bolts, and don't forget to put the little starry-shaped disk back on.
Hopefully get the chain on at lunchtime and test her out. later::chain on, looking good.
Thanks to all who contributed/advised.
Ciaran
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